Tag: maxxis

There is no best UTV tire. There is a best tire for the ground you actually ride, and most people buy for the ground they imagine riding.

Be honest about it. If nine rides out of ten are hardpack trail and gravel road with one mud weekend a year, a full mud tire will make those nine rides louder, slower and harsher for no reason. The picks below are sorted by terrain, not by rank.

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Maxxis BigHorn Radial, the all-around set

If you ride mixed terrain and want one answer, this is it. Radial construction rides softer than a bias-ply at the same pressure, which your spine notices after four hours on a rocky two-track.

The tread is moderate. It clears light mud, holds on hardpack and stays quiet enough on gravel that you can hear the machine. It will not save you in a deep bog and it is not trying to.

It is the most expensive set here by a wide margin. That is the honest downside and for a lot of riders it is enough to disqualify it.

ITP Mud Lite XXL, the value pick

Six-ply, light for its size, and priced where damaging one is annoying rather than painful. It has outlasted a lot of trendier tires by being adequate at everything.

Lighter tires matter more on a UTV than people expect. Rotating mass is the first thing that eats a drive belt, and this is one of the lighter options at 30 inches.

The compound is hard. On wet rock and roots it slides where a softer tire holds. That is the price of the tread life.

Maxxis Zilla, for actual mud

Tall paddle-style lugs, staggered front and rear, sold as a set of four. If your riding involves ground that swallows a boot, this is the tire.

On dry hardpack the same lugs that clear mud make noise and wear faster. Running these as a year-round tire on a machine that rarely sees mud is a common and expensive mistake.

Light for a mud tire, which keeps the belt penalty down.

SuperATV XT Warrior, the heavy-duty pick

Eight-ply, stiff sidewall, built for people who ride rock and sharp terrain where a lighter casing gets cut. It takes low pressure without folding and it does not care about ledges.

Available in sizes big enough to require a lift and a clutch kit. Going oversize without the clutch work is how belts get destroyed, and this site has a whole cluster on that problem.

Heavy. That weight is the reason it survives, and it is also the reason it costs you acceleration and belt life.

Which UTV tire should you buy?

Mixed terrain and comfort matter, buy the Maxxis BigHorn Radial set.

Tight budget or a work machine, buy the ITP Mud Lite XXL. Real mud, buy the Maxxis Zilla. Rock and sharp terrain, buy the SuperATV XT Warrior and budget for the clutch kit.

Size and load rating, the part that gets skipped

Ply rating is not a measure of strength alone, it is a load rating. A six-ply tire on a loaded four-seat machine runs hot and fails, and it fails on the sidewall where it cannot be plugged.

Going up more than two inches over stock diameter without a clutch kit changes the gearing enough to cook belts. That is not a marketing claim, it is the single most common cause of the belt failures covered across this site.

Related guides

• The best UTV tires for rock crawling
• Do you balance UTV tires
• Why are UTV tires smaller in the front
• How long can I drive my UTV on unbalanced tires

FAQ

How long do UTV tires last?

Between 1,000 and 4,000 miles depending on compound and terrain. Hard-compound trail tires reach the top of that range. Soft mud tires on pavement will not see the bottom of it.

Should I run the same tire front and rear?

Same tread pattern, usually different width. Most machines run narrower fronts for steering effort and wider rears for traction, which is why sets ship staggered.